for turbo but that has alot to do with my car being knock limited ign. did you decide on compression ratio yet? i like low comp. to adjust these areas, be creative while using your head. realize that this also relates to your block's deck. You may also want to check squish and not just cc the combustion chambers. stream-lining those port deviders may help and have no real downside for your turbo app.
I would leave a lot of contact area for the exhaust valve to cool itself against the seat. Who make 'em and how much? I imagine lightening the valves is a better alternative than stiffening springs. I couldn't find any brands in the archives. GRM's 1.6 buildup mentions lighter-than-stock stainless steel valves. Are those VS850 (?) valves springs available? How much stiffer than stock are they? how do you fix the lift of the valve to make a flow measurement? I plan to measure at 2,4,6,and 8 mm. Do one change to each port, then propagate change to all ports when doing piston tops use grease on the edges to keep crud out of bores and piston rings use acetone to remove carbon, and scotchbrite, not wire wheels head refresh kit(?) which includes head gasket and valves seals, and ? check valve clearances (cold) and re-shim as needed, targetting factory minimum spec buy DIY thermal (ceramic) coating from and attempt to do the exhaust ports (this would prevent carbon buildup and reduce heat transferred into the cylinder head, bake in oven Hakuna style. have a small 45 degree cut done on the face of the exhaust valves have a small 25 degree back-cut done on the intake valves cc the chambers (how do I enlarge the volume of the ones that are small?) attempt to polish combustion chambers and exhaust ports
make sure exhaust manifold holes are bigger than exhaust ports sharpen or knife-edge the "fork" where the aiflow splits to the two valves, but only on the exhaust (is this correct?) cleanup casting flash and sharp corners in combustion chamber cleanup casting flash and sharp corners in bowl area and valve seats clean carbon off piston tops without taking pistons out buy Standard Abrasives deluxe porting kit from jegs (~$36) Use my Rotozip with 1/4" chuck, running at 15k rpm (its minimum) I also looked at Hakuna's pics, and I have that DIY porting book by Philips(?) check in, how long did it take and what tools and parts did you need? Did you find as much casting flash in the M2 head as the M1 head in Hakuna's site? Any other tips and tricks? While planning my short block replacement on my dead '00, my thoughts turn to DIY headwork.
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